London's Vertical Gateway

Hotel Verta on the Thames waterfront in Battersea was built in 2010 as part of the regeneration of a rather forgotten corner of London. The hotel, which unashamedly declares it is for the elite, is bang next door to London's only heliport and part of what has been dubbed 'London's Vertical Gateway'.

I had some difficulty finding the hotel (few cab drivers seem to know where it is yet), but was immediately soothed by the restful interior that is decidedly modern but featuring rich pickings related to the area’s heritage. I loved the decidedly decadent suite but I have to say I didn't spend too much time in my room – I was just too busy eating.

Although I did begin my visit to the spa where I was looked after by the lovely Leila and sipped ginseng flower tea complete with petals. I normally resist a facial, but I went for the 'signature sweet option' which was superb and as relaxing as a massage. Unusually, I was given lots of tips to take home, with foundation and toner recommendations and a bagful of goodies for me and my husband.

I would go as far as to say the eating experience here is outstanding. I say eating experience, because it is not just the food that is enjoyable, but the atmosphere of the restaurant, the service (which is charming yet relaxed) and very importantly – the choice of food.

My husband and I began at the cocktail bar which is just as a cocktail bar should be – restful, civilised but with a lovely buzz and of course serving perfect cocktails – which they were. I went for an 'Aviation' cocktail – Aviation gin, maraschino and lemon juice, although I was tempted by a 'Bramble' and tucked into wasabi nuts and olives. My husband went for a daiquiri – the classic, not the 'lady's version' he pointed out. He then went on to declare the dry martini – the cocktail by which all cocktail bars are judged – as 'faultless'.

The service was absolutely charming and very on the ball – a surprisingly rare combination, particularly in London hotels. I liked the 'lounge dining' - an all day menu and a really good one: concise, with just ten options, and all perfectly chosen. It was just the right mix of rustic and sophisticated, with dishes such as cep risotto and oak smoked salmon and soda bread. Then I saw the Jet Fuel menu (named after the heliport, my husband informed me) which is also all day (11.30am–11pm), offering mouthwatering oysters with tabasco and shallots, spiced jhinga prawns and chorizo hot dog. Oh, and they also offer afternoon tea from a very civilised 2.30pm to 6pm.

The restaurant is big but not too big and the menu very assured, with something for everyone whilst having a real focus. I like a menu that doesn't try too hard, as if the chef has something to prove. The mains are relatively pricey - around £20, although the starters averaged only around £8, including for six oysters, which is very good value. Around half the items on the menu were fishy, which suited me fine. I liked the local touches with desserts (all £7.50) featuring Battersea honey.

The breakfast menu, which was a lovely mix of traditional English and some more contemporary options, didn't disappoint. I went for the 'brain food breakfast' of smoked mackerel on wholemeal toast with poached eggs and a berry smoothie. My husband went old school with boiled eggs and soldiers. No, we didn't leave by helicopter in case you are wondering. But the chopper brought in a few lucky guests as we were having breakfast, which made an unusual and entertaining vista.

London's Vertical Gateway
Bridges Wharf, Battersea
London, SW11 3BE
Sat Nav Ref: SW11 3RP
Tel: 020 7801 3500
www.hotelverta.com

London's Left Bank

Did you know that London has it's very own Left Bank? No, neither did I until I checked in to the Rafayel, on the Thames in Battersea and read the hotel's brochure. Hidden away about ten minutes by cab from Vauxhall Bridge, Hotel Rafayel is half way between Wandsworth and Battersea bridges. My car had broken down – which was okay as I had breakdown cover – but I had to take a taxi and my driver admitted he had never heard of the place.

My river view suite – one of 65 rooms in the hotel – was modern and felt very much like the product of a new build: slick and functional. The Banyan restaurant has an eclectic menu with – predictably given its name – an Asian bent. Starters included some failsafes such as tandoori, mixed grill gnocchi and Scottish smoked salmon, although there were a few oddities, like strawberry and feta salad. Mains included Banyan style monkfish in lime and coriander with chilli chips as well as a biryani and chicken tikka. There were plenty of nods to British cuisine in choices such as Angus fillet steak with shitake mushrooms and potato rocket puree and good old fish and chips.

I was delighted by the people who worked at the Rafayal: the driver, the concierge and the fairy cake maker. Aman, a 17 year old from Afghanistan, who picked me up at the station (this service is available to anyone on request) was absolutely charming. Errol, the concierge, was warm, smiley and informative and even Adam the master cake maker stopped to chat with me about my stay.

Rafayel on the Left Bank

34 Lombard Rd - London SW11 3RF
Adjacent to London Heliport
Tel. +44 (0)20 7801 3600,
www.hotelrafayel.com

Sublime Spa in Spain

‘How are you today?’ asks the pretty girl behind reception of SHA spa as we enter the gleaming reception. Putin’s wife stayed here the previous week, with rather more glamorous recent visitors including Madonna and Gwyneth Paltrow. Nearby Benidorm where Brits flood in daily for all inclusive holidays in the sun is a world away.


My best friend and I had loaded our suitcases with books, magazines and even our laptops, imagining we might get bored, but our days were varied and full. We became obsessed with our schedule, poring over it’s every detail. Every morning at 8am we walked to the beach or the lighthouse before breakfast. We went to talks on nutrition, had lessons in macrobiotic cooking and even took part in a tea ceremony. Early evening, it was yoga, tai chi or meditation. This was interspersed with daily massage, flotarium sessions, and acupuncture. The evening saw dancing classes, or a showing of a film – on Chinese healing, perhaps, or something more mainstream such as Super Size me in the library.


That afternoon, as we take a long walk along the beach of Altea, not a million miles from Benidorm, with smiling Eliza from guest relations, we realise we don’t really know what macrobiotic food is. Eliza tells us enthusiastically how she has changed her diet as a result of working at SHA, even giving up yoghurt, which is practically a Bulgarian national dish. We are surprised to hear that tomatoes, for example, are not macrobiotic and learn that daikon, a Japanese vegetable that absorbs fat and is full of minerals is very important in macrobiotic cooking.

I am enthralled by our afternoon cookery lesson. Not, I have to say, by the recipe of stir-fried vegetables with smoked mint, but by our teacher, Pablo Montaro Fernández the head chef who is, well – dishy. Pablo has his own vegetarian restaurant in Alicante but admits it is a challenge to create menus that are both gastronomic and healthy. Also, with menus effectively decided by ‘Doctor Ken’, he has limited scope for creativity.


Dr. Ken’s suggestion to eat local, seasonal foods according to the environment you are in makes sense to me. So, for example, only eat tropical fruit when you are in the tropics. The majority of people come to SHA for weight loss, to detox, de-stress and to give up smoking. According to Ken, one of the most important thing we can do is detox from sugar and butter – even if you don’t eat much of them, they are in so many foods already.

I loved the menu but for someone who doesn’t eat fish, or vegetarians, there is very little on offer, and because the menu doesn’t change, by the third day it had become a bit samey. But I was happy to have the prawn carpaccio on a big bed of rocket ringed by fine parmesan shavings several times during my stay as it was outstanding.

SHA Spa
Verderol 5 El Albir 03581 Alicante Spain
Tel. 0034 966 811 199
www.shawellnessclinic.com
Under the SHA foundation a percentage of income from SHA spa is used to support Latin America’s most deprived children.

Spas in Spain (SIS)
Tel. 0034 689 073 451
www.spa-in-spain.com
Spas in Spain offer an online booking service, for which there is no charge, for spas throughout mainland Spain and the islands. You
can search by area, hotel or category (for example, spas for men, city spa breaks and week-long ayurvedic holidays). The owners, who offer a conscientious service, have personal knowledge of mainland Spain, and the hotels, treatments and packages offered on the site.

SHA is a Healing Hotel which has properties all over the world.

Lanzarote, local style

Should I keep this a secret? Well, maybe, but I am not going to. I love Lanzarote. Yes, Mr Michael Palin called it grotty, but I have found his take on other cultures (since the Life of Brian, that is), well, rather patronising and often off the mark. Lanzarote is beautiful (yes, the interior is mostly desert, but I like that), many of the beaches deserted and almost all of the buildings are low rise. A UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, this little island just a few hour's away by plane from the UK produces some very decent wine and, very importantly, particularly at this time of the year, boasts year round sunshine. In fact, thinking about it, I am going to look at flights to Lanzarote now. Seriously. Should you want to follow in my footsteps, here are some of my insider recommendations to enjoy a little of Lanzarote like a local.

1) Visit the little farmers market at Mancha Blancha on a Sunday. This is very much a local's market, selling only food, but there is a lovely variety: big sacks of dried anchovies, local wine in unlabelled bottles that has to be worth a try at just 3 euros each and fresh herbs and fig jam. Perfect if you are self catering, want to put together a beach picnic, or even for souvenirs.

2) Rather than take your children to one of the expensive, zoo-like theme parks on the island, I recommend you visit Pardelas Nature Park (www.pardelas-park.com) which offers an altogether more local experience. Kids can actually interact with the animals, rather than just looking at them in cages, learn about the local flora and fauna, and even try their hand at pottery.

3) I would always suggest trying to arrange your trip to see the Fiesta Nuestra Señora de Los Dolores in September – Lanzarote's most colourful festival is a wonderful mix of folklore, history and fun. It is a delightful insight into local life, during which islanders, many of them dressed in traditional costumes, make a pilgrimage from all over Lanzarote to give thanks to the Virgen de los Dolores, the patron saint of Lanzarote and the 'Lady of the Volcanoes'. Travelling on foot with donkeys and camels pulling carts laden with food and drink, the processions are a wonderful sight, ending at the church in the tiny village of Mancha Blanca.

If you are after the latest, up to date information about the island, make sure to look at www.lanzaroteguidebook.com It really is comprehensive and in-depth and one of the best online guides I have read.

Afghanistan at a Crossroads

Afghanistan: Crossroads of the Ancient World opened on March 3rd at the British Museum. This exhibition is a window into the fragile history of this beautiful country's cultural heritage; it is a story of survival that goes beyond politics. I intend to travel to Afghanistan this year, but only with fully comprehensive travel insurance, of course. I have a burning desire to go to Kabul, partly because one of my best friends in the world, Heather is there, practically single-handedly setting up the country's legal system, but partly because every Afghan I have met – mostly taxi drivers in London – have enchanted me with their quiet stoic strength, dignity and optimism. I have already checked out a couple of tour companies: Afghan Logistics and Tours and Hinterland Travel, so watch this space. Interestingly, though, the ever over cautious Foreign and Commonwealth Office does not currently give a blanket ban on travel to the country.

I can't remember the last time an exhibition gave me shivers down my spine, but this one did. The sheer breadth of the origins of the pieces on display from a country so ravaged by war, offered a glimmer of light on a dark March day. In fact, I was reminded of a wonderful book I read a long time ago and loved: An Unexpected Light: Travels in Afghanistan.

On display are 200 objects, which survive thanks to the quick thinking and brave actions of the staff of the National Museum of Afghanistan in Kabul. Perhaps the star piece and one of my personal favourites is a dazzling golden crown made for a nomadic princess. But this is no ordinary crown, it was built to be flat packed in a style that Ikea would be proud of, for this princess that was always on the move. 'You need one of those,' my friend observed. Dating back to 2,000BC, the piece was was found at Tillya Tepe, 'the hill of gold', along with 20,000 other gold objects. When the exhibition closes in London on 3rd July some of the treasures will go back to Kabul when the national museum will, miraculously, open again.

Peace in the Middle East

I have just returned from a trip to Oman with a gaggle of 100 journalists from the British Guild of Travel Writers. All the participants I spoke to seemed delighted by this beautiful country with its gentle people, a world away from the brash consumerism of near-neighbour Dubai.

At a time when many countries in this part of the world seem explosive to say the least, Oman's people appear genuinely happy with, and even devoted, to their Sultan. We toured deserted wadis (dry river beds) and historic forts before relaxing in the sublime spa of the Chedi, one of the Leading Hotels of the World.

Christmas at Claridges

I was lucky enough to be taken to lunch at Gordon Ramsay's restaurant at Claridges today. I love Claridges for its timeless sophistication and the experience did not disappoint. Our effervescent French waiter announced that he was going to give us a present, which turned out to be the best table in the house, on a raised platform overlooking the splendid dining room. Thank you Laura Mason-Byers from Cellet, one of the UK's major boutique PR companies.

A few of us started with a startlingly good Gin Fizz and the food that followed was classic European with just the right hint of Christmas. The credit crunch price - £30 for three courses, is something to be applauded. This is excellent value, especially compared to the price of afternoon tea, which is £35 per person (£50 for a 'festive' version).

I really appreciated the concise menu – a choice of three dishes for each course and couldn't fault my starter of mushroom gnocchi with chestnut and a perfect poached egg (not easy to do), followed by guinea fowl and then chestnut pannacotta with fresh berries. I and my fellow diners were tempted to shut the door and retire for the rest of the day. In fact, we practically did and the whole experience was so leisurely that we did not leave until nearly 4pm. This was a pleasant surprise after hearing previous diners complaining about the two sittings at dinner meaning you are practically kicked out at 9pm.

We had time to pause to admire the Galliano christmas tree, which I have to say was really not my thing and I found rather alarming. I like my Christmas – including decorations – soothing and classic, although I did admire the distinctly Modernist lights of South Moulton Street afterwards.