Satsuma

This little gem of a restaurant slap bang in the middle of Soho is the only Japanese restaurant from the highly thought of Royal China stable of restaurants. It has been a favourite with media types, locals and tourists for the 12 years since it opened, but thanks to a recent, splendid refurb it is more appealing than ever. We came in for 'lunch' but the eclectic menu and relaxed staff means you can come in for something to eat at just about any time of day.

I loved the spacious interior and we were lucky enough to get a booth. I was meeting a fellow travel writer for lunch. We had both just returned from sunnier climes (she: Caribbean, me: The Algarve) but as we looked out at people huddled in the rain on Wardour Street, it felt as if we were sitting under a little ray of orange sunshine and I was charmed when the young smiley waiter happily plugged in my phone for me using his charger.

I ordered a hot saké and began leafing through the wonderfully concise picture menu. We went for a starter of silky aubergine and an exquisitely presented crab maki roll (pictured) followed by Katsu chicken (also pictured), spicy beef udon and a seaweed salad beautifully and imaginatively served on ice in a cocktail glass. Katsu is the restaurant's signature dish – the chicken was lightly breaded with a deliciously rich curry sauce. All dishes were very reasonably priced with most mains between £5 and £10.

This intimate restaurant – as sweetly satisfying and visually appealing as the little fruit from which it takes its name – attracts a mix of people, all of whom appeared very relaxed in this soothing environment. Behind us a man played drums with his chopsticks to entertain his six-year-old son who announced 'I like it here, it's my second time', opposite a Chinese couple stood their pretty doll-like baby on their table while two American girls gossiped in the corner.

The only problem? We didn't want to leave and we only managed to prise ourselves away a full four hours later; the discreet waiting staff not batting an eyelid at our extended 'lunch'.

54 Wardour Street Tel 0207 437 8338

www.osatsuma.com

A Soothing Spa in Central Kings Cross

I felt like an excited and slightly nervous school girl arriving at the Hogwartian St Pancras Renaissance Hotel for the first time. Scenes from Harry Potter were filmed here and the location certainly worked some kind of magic on me. The hotel, which originally threw open its doors in 1873, reopened this year to the tune of a cool 150 million pounds. It was a surprise to me that this oh so British heritage hotel is actually a Marriott, which offers a range of holiday deals, but it shows no hint of a chain mentality.

I enjoyed a skilfully executed cleansing and soothing express facial with Cinq Mondes products in the subterranean spa, housed in the old kitchen. The spa manager explained that the range – which means ‘Five Worlds’ – was deemed highly appropriate given the amount of travellers that pass through the hotel building and the bustling train station. But that was not the only reason. All the products from this highly thought of French stable, which are used in 200 spas in 20 countries around the world, are organic and natural and of extraordinary quality.

Cinq Mondes, which is very much a dedicated spa brand, inspired a complete set of ‘spa journeys’ to transport visitors to the Renaissance spa to Europe, India, Indonesia, and beyond. After their treatment drawing on beauty and relaxation rituals from around the world, guests are treated to a special snack, with music and smells appropriate to their treatment ‘destination’ – a wonderfully imaginative touch.

Throughout the exquisitely decorated spa, presided over by a dedicated spa butler, the symbol of a peacock is a reappearing icon. During painstaking renovations (which took nearly a decade) of this historic building, the symbol of a peacock was found in the plasterwork. It seemed an ideal image for the spa which has rejuvenation as its central ethos as the peacock is able to grow a completely set of new feathers when it sheds its old ones.

The Victorian tiled relaxation pool is a serene space that is a world away from the busy international station above. I was told that the interior designers were allowed to use a palette of just 20 colours in this heritage hotel. This obviously presented a real challenge, but there is no hint of the restrictions in place, with the décor singing real classic style.

Upstairs, the Booking Office bar and restaurant is housed in the original ticket office. I have been told not to miss a Gin Fizz with truffle and chips at the charming old school bar and a night in the hotel itself ­ – but that’s another journey.

www.stpancrasspa.co.uk

Rio on a Roll

Rio de Janeiro is on a roll. Like a beautiful woman who has long been dismissed as frivolous, the city is finally being taken seriously. Booking my flights to Ibiza got me thinking about hedonistic destinations. Rio de Janeiro has always been Brazil’s most desirable tourist destination, but, thanks to some spectacular successes, the world is now realising that Rio is not just a pretty face.

No one can fail to be seduced by Rio de Janeiro’s striking physical features. The outstretched arms of the Christ the Redeemer statue in the curvaceous green hills of the largest urban forest on the planet offer a continuous welcoming embrace. And Rio’s crescents of golden sands are some of the finest city beaches in the world. Copacabana in the city’s ‘South Zone’ is rather past its sell by date though; much more appealing is neighbouring Ipanema, where the beautiful people in their world-famous beachwear hang out.

On a rainy day in Rio – this hot, exotic city has more than you might think – visitors should cut their losses and head to the rainforest enclaves of the impressive Botanical Gardens or Tijuca National Park – the city’s spectacular green lung. Rio de Janeiro forms Brazil’s cultural corridor and its large number of museums, churches and cultural centres in the historical heart known as Centro not only offer shelter from the elements but are of real appeal.

Rio de Janeiro comes with an unforgettable soundtrack. Samba, the lifeblood of Carnival, can be heard year round in samba schools and in traditional dance halls known as gafierias. The city has undeniable social problems but there are plenty of good news stories, with the artists’ quarter of Santa Teresa – once a no go area – becoming Rio’s very own Montmartre. This is a city at ease with itself, and rich in musical traditions. And it is essentially a democratic place where everyone –on the beach and in the much-loved botequims (traditional local bars) at least – is equal.

The country’s meteoric rise as an economic power – now the fifth biggest in the world – and its role as host of the World Cup (2014) and the Olympics (2016) mean that the beautiful city of Rio is taking centre stage as a global player. Rio – now more than ever – is a city to watch.

This article is to appear in ABTA magazine.

Jamaican Twist at Notting Hill Carnival

London’s Notting Hill Carnival has its roots firmly in the culture of the West Indian island of Trinidad, but since 2003, Jamaican Twist – the only Jamaican float to take part – has been an integral part, winning no less than six awards in the last three years.

There was some talk this year that the carnival would not go ahead in the light of the recent London riots. Boris Johnston said to cancel would have been to admit defeat, but the result would have been a lot worse than that. For many of the young, black and mixed race participants, it is a unique chance for them to express themselves and their culture.

Feisty, busty, tattooed Natalie (21 years) has been many times carnival queen for Jamaica Twist which she has been part of since she was just 13. I ask her if it just Jamaicans who can join the float. ‘Nah, nah, we are Brazilian, Jamaican, Scottish… we come from all over. And Jamaicans come from all over. It is like we say, ‘‘Out of many, one people’.

This is the fitting national motto and one taken up by the Jamaican Tourist Board, who sponsor the float each year. In true carnival spirit, Jamaican Twist collaborates with other musicians representing other islands and countries, including Trinidad and Tobago, Brazil and the South Pacific islands. Each year is a new theme representing a key part of Jamaican culture. This year it was it Bob Marley to mark the 30^th anniversary of his death.

I couldn't imagine a better and stronger expression of community. And it is a particularly powerful statement when you remember that the first Notting Hill carnival was born out of a deeply racist and divided neighbourhood where signs saying: ‘No Blacks, No Irish, No dogs’ were commonplace.

Veronica, a charity worker, who volunteers with Jamaican Twist, explains that there are a lot of second and third generation Jamaicans who have never even been to Jamaica. The organisation, which also puts on events throughout the year, works very hard at engaging youngsters with a sense of pride of their community and of where they come from. ‘We have a very good Facebook page and we try to keep them interested in their culture, their music, dance and give them a bit of history. I do hope they dance decently today’, she says nervously.

They don’t. For a white middle class English girl like me, the grinding is shockingly sexual and I was surprised to see youngsters drinking brandy neat from the bottle at 11am. One young woman who had been to Jamaica on holiday skilfully grinded with the security guards, but at the same time three youths danced sweetly to a highly choreographed routine.

Carnival, despite what you might think, is not actually a spectator sport so I did my lame best to join in. Participants were not only of a mix of cultural heritage, but of all ages, backgrounds and dancing ability. We were issued with t-shirts (which most of the girls customised to make more revealing) and much needed ear plugs. The sounds from the three metre high walls of speakers that lined the Jamaican Twist truck were deafening. A tiny space in the middle was given over to a fridge, microwave and DJ. After a truly Jamaican start, we set off two and a half hours late, fortified with the best jerk chicken with rice and peas I have ever tasted and the strongest rum and coke.

Notting Hill may now be one of London’s most desirable areas, but as recently as the 1970s it was described as ‘a massive slum, full of multi-occupied houses, crawling with rats and rubbish’. Home to large communities of Afro-Caribbean immigrants, and racial tension inevitably reared its head. It was in this part of West London that the first race riots occurred in 1958. The Carnival was the joyous and peaceful response, which first took place indoors, but by 1965 had taken to the streets. The multi cultural celebration has grown each year and now sees around two million visitors over the two-day event.

Alexander D Great, the UK Calypso Monarch explained: ‘That procession declared to the British public how Caribbeans celebrated - with joy and with laughter and with jumping and dancing - an event like this, and the carnival is also representative of the same thing. And maybe this was the first time that the British public saw the Caribbean spirit in Britain in the open air.’

For just |15 pounds (for a t-shirt and to follow the float) anyone can join the carnival. If you want to wear a costume, it is 85 pounds, which also includes a meal, drinks and patties.

www.jamaicantwist.com/membership.

Notting Hill Carnival in London is second only to Rio’s in Brazil. And my advice to enjoy both is the same: join in.

California's Road Less Travelled

When I said I was going to San Francisco, many friends queued to tell me it was their favourite city in the world. I too am a big fan of San Fran’s laid back charms – but beyond the Golden Gate Bridge are less peopled parts of Southern California, with a bounty of natural treasure that many visitors miss completely.

Of course, nearby Yosemite, Sequoia and Kings Canyon are California’s big three when it comes to national parks. Popular fly-drive breaks see a healthy flood of international tourists land at San Fran, stay for a few days to sample city life and then head out to one or more of these natural wonders. But I sought the road less travelled.

I decided to venture across the Golden Gate Bridge to visit charming Sausalito, traditional seaside Santa Cruz, awash with nostalgia, and some of southern California that many visitors miss. An unforgettable hike in the little known but spectacular Pinnacles National Monument, ocean kayaking in sleepy Monterey Bay and a visit to the largest marine sanctuary in the US left me with some real gilt-edged memories of the Golden State of California.

I began my trip, and thoroughly recommend, staying at Cavallo Point, a luxury lodge with extraordinary bay views, and rooms that start at a good-value $280. It began life as Fort Baker in 1905, but has been lovingly converted into an eco resort over the last ten years. The Point is in the pretty waterfront community of Sausalito, within the Golden Gate National Park and standing practically at the foot of the famous bridge. It’s just a 30-minute taxi ride to the heart of San Francisco, but who needs a cab to some fancy downtown eatery when the Point has Murray Circle – its own Michelin-starred restaurant. You can reach the city by ferry too, but I chose a breathtaking 90-minute pedal-powered ride over the bridge, one of the highlights of my trip.

From Sausalito, I headed 75 miles south through the state. The thrills of Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk with its classic Americana and obligatory Big Dipper passed me by. But for those who love all the fun of the fair, an all-day wristband is a steal at less than US$30.

My next stop was Monterey Bay, around 120 miles south of San Fran. The bay is just the beginning of a ruggedly scenic coastline that zigzags for 300 miles as far down as Ventura. You may not have heard of the laid back coastal town of Monterey Bay, but Steinbeck immortalised the area’s long-gone sardine fisheries in Cannery Row, and the town’s non‑profit aquarium is widely agreed to be one of the best in the world. The undeniably impressive Open Sea gallery – a million-gallon exhibit populated with sea turtles, sharks and puffins – opened in July 2011 to much acclaim.

New breed of Bangkok Hotel

The Bangkok Loft Inn is an exciting addition to the traditional Bangkok accommodation scene. This ‘inn’ is an example of a new breed of modern, simple boutique hotels that are springing up not just in Thailand, but in big cities worldwide. Although not in the heart of the traditional tourist area, this excellent value option is conveniently close to the futuristic Skytrain station that can whisk you around town. Expect real wood floors, sleek modern furnishings, free Wi Fi, spotless rooms and a welcome free pick up from the airport (you may have to wait though).

Sailing on America's Cup Yacht, San Francisco Bay

I got a sneak preview of the 34th America's Cup which is taking place in San Francisco in 2013, a 90-day event that will see around 40 of the fastest sail boats in the world compete. On a glorious, if windswept, day we set sail on America in San Francisco Bay, a local journalist telling me: ‘They say if you can sail in San Francisco you can sail anywhere in the world.'

This beauty is the $6 million replica of the schooner after which the race is named, although I had always assumed that it took its name from the country. The original yacht won Queen Victoria's 100 Guinea Cup in England way back in 1851 and finally 'perished' in 1945 – well, it was actually left to rot.

‘We have a head on board’ the captain and co-owner announces. My husband translates, whispering that a head is a toilet. It is probably the only bit of the yacht's equipment that I really need to know about. Some of the passengers have eagerly offered their services as deck hands, but I am here to admire the view as we sail under the Golden Gate Bridge.

This is a racing craft, after all, not a pleasure cruiser, although the owner tells me he and family often have Thanksgiving dinner round the table on deck. He goes on to say: ‘I love to sail. I just came back from a trip where I saw 40 humpback whales playing with me in the bay. If people could see what I saw, they would all want to sail.’

Weekly sailings on the America take place throughout July from Golden Gate Yacht Club. The USA 76 is permanently available on the bay for sailings. I am told it is 'the most modern America’s Cup yacht available anywhere in the world for public sailing experiences.' Reservations www.acsailingsf.com