California's Road Less Travelled

When I said I was going to San Francisco, many friends queued to tell me it was their favourite city in the world. I too am a big fan of San Fran’s laid back charms – but beyond the Golden Gate Bridge are less peopled parts of Southern California, with a bounty of natural treasure that many visitors miss completely.

Of course, nearby Yosemite, Sequoia and Kings Canyon are California’s big three when it comes to national parks. Popular fly-drive breaks see a healthy flood of international tourists land at San Fran, stay for a few days to sample city life and then head out to one or more of these natural wonders. But I sought the road less travelled.

I decided to venture across the Golden Gate Bridge to visit charming Sausalito, traditional seaside Santa Cruz, awash with nostalgia, and some of southern California that many visitors miss. An unforgettable hike in the little known but spectacular Pinnacles National Monument, ocean kayaking in sleepy Monterey Bay and a visit to the largest marine sanctuary in the US left me with some real gilt-edged memories of the Golden State of California.

I began my trip, and thoroughly recommend, staying at Cavallo Point, a luxury lodge with extraordinary bay views, and rooms that start at a good-value $280. It began life as Fort Baker in 1905, but has been lovingly converted into an eco resort over the last ten years. The Point is in the pretty waterfront community of Sausalito, within the Golden Gate National Park and standing practically at the foot of the famous bridge. It’s just a 30-minute taxi ride to the heart of San Francisco, but who needs a cab to some fancy downtown eatery when the Point has Murray Circle – its own Michelin-starred restaurant. You can reach the city by ferry too, but I chose a breathtaking 90-minute pedal-powered ride over the bridge, one of the highlights of my trip.

From Sausalito, I headed 75 miles south through the state. The thrills of Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk with its classic Americana and obligatory Big Dipper passed me by. But for those who love all the fun of the fair, an all-day wristband is a steal at less than US$30.

My next stop was Monterey Bay, around 120 miles south of San Fran. The bay is just the beginning of a ruggedly scenic coastline that zigzags for 300 miles as far down as Ventura. You may not have heard of the laid back coastal town of Monterey Bay, but Steinbeck immortalised the area’s long-gone sardine fisheries in Cannery Row, and the town’s non‑profit aquarium is widely agreed to be one of the best in the world. The undeniably impressive Open Sea gallery – a million-gallon exhibit populated with sea turtles, sharks and puffins – opened in July 2011 to much acclaim.

New breed of Bangkok Hotel

The Bangkok Loft Inn is an exciting addition to the traditional Bangkok accommodation scene. This ‘inn’ is an example of a new breed of modern, simple boutique hotels that are springing up not just in Thailand, but in big cities worldwide. Although not in the heart of the traditional tourist area, this excellent value option is conveniently close to the futuristic Skytrain station that can whisk you around town. Expect real wood floors, sleek modern furnishings, free Wi Fi, spotless rooms and a welcome free pick up from the airport (you may have to wait though).

Sailing on America's Cup Yacht, San Francisco Bay

I got a sneak preview of the 34th America's Cup which is taking place in San Francisco in 2013, a 90-day event that will see around 40 of the fastest sail boats in the world compete. On a glorious, if windswept, day we set sail on America in San Francisco Bay, a local journalist telling me: ‘They say if you can sail in San Francisco you can sail anywhere in the world.'

This beauty is the $6 million replica of the schooner after which the race is named, although I had always assumed that it took its name from the country. The original yacht won Queen Victoria's 100 Guinea Cup in England way back in 1851 and finally 'perished' in 1945 – well, it was actually left to rot.

‘We have a head on board’ the captain and co-owner announces. My husband translates, whispering that a head is a toilet. It is probably the only bit of the yacht's equipment that I really need to know about. Some of the passengers have eagerly offered their services as deck hands, but I am here to admire the view as we sail under the Golden Gate Bridge.

This is a racing craft, after all, not a pleasure cruiser, although the owner tells me he and family often have Thanksgiving dinner round the table on deck. He goes on to say: ‘I love to sail. I just came back from a trip where I saw 40 humpback whales playing with me in the bay. If people could see what I saw, they would all want to sail.’

Weekly sailings on the America take place throughout July from Golden Gate Yacht Club. The USA 76 is permanently available on the bay for sailings. I am told it is 'the most modern America’s Cup yacht available anywhere in the world for public sailing experiences.' Reservations www.acsailingsf.com

Lifesaver near London

Stressed out Londoners can jump on a train at Liverpool Street and be in Lifehouse in just over an hour. Who needs glamorous overseas villa holidays when we have this on our doorstep? In Thorpe-le-Soken, Essex, a ten-minute drive from the pretty beach town of Frinton-on-sea, the Lifehouse opened in December 2010 to the tune of £30 million. The modern, simple buildings and 130 acres of grounds, including 12 acres of magnificent listed gardens, form an extensive holistic retreat.

I was greeted by an effervescent young trainer, Shelley who enthusiastically reeled off a list of activities from acupuncture and boot camp to Zumba. I did a very enjoyable Vinyasa session in the dedicated yoga and pilates room, with the radiant Jocelyn, who also advises guests about raw foods.

Lifehouse’s signature treatment, the Oriental Bathing Experience, is inspired by traditional bathhouses in the east. During a sensory two-hour session I was taken on a journey through Asian cultures. My therapist began by gently pouring milk bath laced with ginseng, green tea and gingko from a ladle made with coconut over my feet, explaining that this is both grounding and a sign of respect. After tapping my feet with a wooden stick as part of a traditional Thai ritual, she swaddled them in white nappy-like towels.

I walked on a stone circle breathing in Moroccan rose oil, which was wonderfully meditative, and was scrubbed down in a Japanese bathhouse. The experience ended with a Japanese tea ceremony and a blissful hot stone massage. After just two days I tripped back to Liverpool Street Station feeling as if I had been away for a week.

The full article appears in Yoga Magazine in July.

Travel Diaries

Holly Jones is an enthusiastic would-be travel writer who writes a travel blog (http://hjtraveldiaries.blogspot.com). Holly is about to travel the world on her gap year and got in touch with me to ask my advice about Thailand. My AA Spiral guide to Thailand is available on Amazon.

Travel writing as a career would be a dream for me. Getting to travel, write about about the travels and then paid for it - yes please! Although I'm sure there's a tad more hard work involved! Jane Egginton has had 20 years worth of experience writing and editing in the travelling field. Some of the travel guides she has edited and written in include Dorling Kindersley, Thomas Cook and Michelin. She also spent four years in house at Readers Digest. Suffice to say she has had a lot of travelling experience and knows her stuff! I was lucky enough to get an opportunity to ask her some questions, so here they are. Also check out her travel blog here (I love it!) - http://www.travelwriteruk.blogspot.com/ and follow her on twitter here - http://twitter.com/#!/janeegginton. Thank you Jane!

Holly - I've just arrived in Thailand what's the first thing I should do?

Jane Egginton - I would jump in a tuk tuk, whizzing round the traffic clogged streets, this always gives me a real buzz. Then, pull up at a street stall and tuck into some freshly cooked, delicious local food.

H - Thailand is known for it's food, what's good to eat there and any favourite meal you've had there?

JE - I love it all. The fresh fish, cooked in delicate spices, the chilli infused noodle soups, crunchy pad thai...

H - For you does Thailand mean party party or rest and relaxation (or both?!)?

JE - I was never one for those full moon parties, but I love to languish on the white sand beaches and usually find myself having a massage every night - they are a steal and some of the best in the world

H - How would you sum up Thailand in three words?

JE - Smiling, spicy, beautiful

H - What attracted you to South America?

JE - The language (I wanted to improve my Spanish, but couldn't communicate in Spain - Latin Americans are so much more patient), the landscapes - the variety - from beaches and desert to rainforest and mountains is astounding.

H - What are some of your favourite places, things to do or experiences in South America?

JE - I love the desert in Bolivia, which also has a fascinating indigenous population. Colombia is extraordinary and I got married on the beach on its Caribbean coast. My favourite is Brazil. The people are so open (they call us 'fechado' - closed).

H - What's unique about Brazil?

JE - Well, they speak Portuguese, unlike the rest of South America, but what really hits you is the personality of its population. Just go - you will understand what I mean.

H - What are your essentials when setting out on a new trip?

JE - I am not a great planner, but I always carry my iphone with me to be connected to the world.

H - Finally for you, what's the best thing about travelling?

JE - Meeting other people and learning about the world.

A Taste of Spain

As the Taste of Spain (www.atasteofspain.co.uk) kicks off in London on Sunday, consider the little island of Lanzarote, one of the smallest of the Canary Islands, which has a reputation of being brash and, well, not very nice. Monty Python man Michael Palin with his ‘Lanzagrotty’ tag is to blame, but many locals are actually grateful that his description has kept so many potential holidaymakers away, claiming it has helped to preserve the local traditions.

There is an authenticity about life in Lanzarote, more than in many places in Spain. Although undeniably popular as a tourist destination, the island remains essentially rural and was declared a biosphere reserve by UNESCO in 1993. With less rainfall than the scorching Sahara desert and year-round sun, the lovely island of Lanzarote is often mistaken for a barren landscape sprouting nothing but volcanoes. Yet, a huge variety of food is grown here, in the same way as it has been for hundreds of years, using simple and largely organic farming methods. Vines for the surprisingly good Malvasia wine, corn and sweet potatoes are amongst the bumper crops.

Read the full article at http://www.cd-traveller.com/2011/06/03/a-taste-of-lanzarote/

London's Vertical Gateway

Hotel Verta on the Thames waterfront in Battersea was built in 2010 as part of the regeneration of a rather forgotten corner of London. The hotel, which unashamedly declares it is for the elite, is bang next door to London's only heliport and part of what has been dubbed 'London's Vertical Gateway'.

I had some difficulty finding the hotel (few cab drivers seem to know where it is yet), but was immediately soothed by the restful interior that is decidedly modern but featuring rich pickings related to the area’s heritage. I loved the decidedly decadent suite but I have to say I didn't spend too much time in my room – I was just too busy eating.

Although I did begin my visit to the spa where I was looked after by the lovely Leila and sipped ginseng flower tea complete with petals. I normally resist a facial, but I went for the 'signature sweet option' which was superb and as relaxing as a massage. Unusually, I was given lots of tips to take home, with foundation and toner recommendations and a bagful of goodies for me and my husband.

I would go as far as to say the eating experience here is outstanding. I say eating experience, because it is not just the food that is enjoyable, but the atmosphere of the restaurant, the service (which is charming yet relaxed) and very importantly – the choice of food.

My husband and I began at the cocktail bar which is just as a cocktail bar should be – restful, civilised but with a lovely buzz and of course serving perfect cocktails – which they were. I went for an 'Aviation' cocktail – Aviation gin, maraschino and lemon juice, although I was tempted by a 'Bramble' and tucked into wasabi nuts and olives. My husband went for a daiquiri – the classic, not the 'lady's version' he pointed out. He then went on to declare the dry martini – the cocktail by which all cocktail bars are judged – as 'faultless'.

The service was absolutely charming and very on the ball – a surprisingly rare combination, particularly in London hotels. I liked the 'lounge dining' - an all day menu and a really good one: concise, with just ten options, and all perfectly chosen. It was just the right mix of rustic and sophisticated, with dishes such as cep risotto and oak smoked salmon and soda bread. Then I saw the Jet Fuel menu (named after the heliport, my husband informed me) which is also all day (11.30am–11pm), offering mouthwatering oysters with tabasco and shallots, spiced jhinga prawns and chorizo hot dog. Oh, and they also offer afternoon tea from a very civilised 2.30pm to 6pm.

The restaurant is big but not too big and the menu very assured, with something for everyone whilst having a real focus. I like a menu that doesn't try too hard, as if the chef has something to prove. The mains are relatively pricey - around £20, although the starters averaged only around £8, including for six oysters, which is very good value. Around half the items on the menu were fishy, which suited me fine. I liked the local touches with desserts (all £7.50) featuring Battersea honey.

The breakfast menu, which was a lovely mix of traditional English and some more contemporary options, didn't disappoint. I went for the 'brain food breakfast' of smoked mackerel on wholemeal toast with poached eggs and a berry smoothie. My husband went old school with boiled eggs and soldiers. No, we didn't leave by helicopter in case you are wondering. But the chopper brought in a few lucky guests as we were having breakfast, which made an unusual and entertaining vista.

London's Vertical Gateway
Bridges Wharf, Battersea
London, SW11 3BE
Sat Nav Ref: SW11 3RP
Tel: 020 7801 3500
www.hotelverta.com