Afghanistan: Crossroads of the Ancient World opened on March 3rd at the British Museum. This exhibition is a window into the fragile history of this beautiful country's cultural heritage; it is a story of survival that goes beyond politics. I intend to travel to Afghanistan this year, but only with fully comprehensive travel insurance, of course. I have a burning desire to go to Kabul, partly because one of my best friends in the world, Heather is there, practically single-handedly setting up the country's legal system, but partly because every Afghan I have met – mostly taxi drivers in London – have enchanted me with their quiet stoic strength, dignity and optimism. I have already checked out a couple of tour companies: Afghan Logistics and Tours and Hinterland Travel, so watch this space. Interestingly, though, the ever over cautious Foreign and Commonwealth Office does not currently give a blanket ban on travel to the country.
I can't remember the last time an exhibition gave me shivers down my spine, but this one did. The sheer breadth of the origins of the pieces on display from a country so ravaged by war, offered a glimmer of light on a dark March day. In fact, I was reminded of a wonderful book I read a long time ago and loved: An Unexpected Light: Travels in Afghanistan.
On display are 200 objects, which survive thanks to the quick thinking and brave actions of the staff of the National Museum of Afghanistan in Kabul. Perhaps the star piece and one of my personal favourites is a dazzling golden crown made for a nomadic princess. But this is no ordinary crown, it was built to be flat packed in a style that Ikea would be proud of, for this princess that was always on the move. 'You need one of those,' my friend observed. Dating back to 2,000BC, the piece was was found at Tillya Tepe, 'the hill of gold', along with 20,000 other gold objects. When the exhibition closes in London on 3rd July some of the treasures will go back to Kabul when the national museum will, miraculously, open again.
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