A Sublime Scottish Spa

'Did I fall asleep?' I asked Nicola, the Scottish girl at the five-star Blythswood hotel. 'Yes', she smiled, bringing me a glass of cold water. Normally I don't have facials because I would rather have a massage and truly relax but with this facial at the Blythswood I got the best of both worlds.

I wholeheartedly approve of spas using local ingredients. I have had a wine treatment in Argentina, a volcanic pummeling in Lanzarote and a lavender massage in the South of France. But a Scottish spa treatment was a new and welcome one on me. The Blythswood offers holistic signature treatments using organic indigenous Scottish ingredients in its series of ‘Turus Experiences’. A Turus Seaweed Bath offers a uniquely Scottish experience which involves being immersed in a hot bath infused with mineral sea salts containing over 85 natural trace minerals with fresh, hand harvested seaweed from the Hebridean coast. The result is a naturally healing, vitamin-rich, moisturising and anti-ageing treatment.

‘Turus’ is Gaelic for journey. My hour-long facial certainly took me somewhere else. As soon as Nicola, the sweet young thing who enthused over all the products, placed her hand on the top of my chest – on my heart chakra she later explained – I began to unwind. A potent mix of essential oils, including lavender, began to work their magic. ‘Take a deep breath’. I did, exhaling almost immediately. ‘Take another one’, Nicola instructed gently, ‘this time waiting before you exhale’. My breaths got slowly deeper, as my other chakras – the third eye and the crown – were skillfully and deeply worked on. I don’t remember much more than that.

Almost an hour later I came to, asking ‘have I been asleep?’ ‘Yes, I think so’, Nicola beamed. My skin felt gorgeous – soft, fresh and plump. Organic milk thistle extract, aloe vera and lavender were used, my face was gently cleansed with an organic oatmeal scrub and after being massaged, a warm oatmeal and Scottish herb poultice was applied. It seems the result is not just a cleaner face, but awakened meridians and improved drainage of the lymphatic system. I may have no memory of what went on during my anti-ageing facial but I do know I felt amazing.

Time Out Person of the Year

Well might she smile!

CD Traveller

Like many publications, Time Out, nominates its people of the year. Their awards are given to those who “they consider the most influential figures of the past 12 months.” And among them, we are delighted to say, is Jane who writes our regular “Letter from London.”

In such company as Steve Jobs, Adele and Terence Conran what has Jane done to deserve this honour? According to the magazine, “we could have picked Kate Middleton for her services as a clothes horse to British designers, or Lulu Kennedy for her dedication to upcoming talent via Fashion East, but for ground level impact to the London shopping scene, we pick Jane.”

Jane has set up markets on Chatsworth Road and St John’s Church in Hackney and has written a story for us on why visitors should go to Hackney. Again, to quote Time Out, “McIntyre seems dedicated to her neighbourhood, all of her projects being fiercely local-minded and wary of frightening off the native communities with over-gentrified products and prices.”

After the riots she was one of many who helped raise £30,000 to help a local shopkeeper who had his stock ransacked and looted. Not only raising money in the east end of London but throughout the UK and abroad so that the store could re-open.

Here is a person who shows support for her community in a number of ways but for the visitor, she promotes it in her writings and website. Now if all areas who thought they were not attracting visitors felt the same way imagine all the hidden delights, visitors would find.

Our congratulations to Jane who shows what one person can achieve.

A Night in the Clink

I spent the night in the Clink last night. Clink78 is smart new hostel slap bang in the centre of the much smartened up Kings Cross. It is housed in a 200-year-old magistrates court where Dickens penned Oliver Twist and the Clash were later found guilty of a rather messy pigeon-shooting incident. Some of the rooms are in the old prison cell and the interior design in the public spaces masterfully reclaims the building's history with style. Flashed up on the wall in the old court room (now an internet and TV room) is the word 'GUILTY' in blue neon lights and 'The pain of parting is nothing to the joy of meeting again', a quote from Dickens, is scrawled on the reception room wall.

It had been a big night: at a party in the Clash bar downstairs the vodka flowed freely, after which I fell into a triple bunk bed (double bed on the bottom for me and my husband; single on the top for my fellow travel writer John Oates). The unusual threesome arrangement worked perfectly and we all slept well. The room was spotless and although there was no mini bar, there was a complimentary packet of crisps and some maltesas on the bedside, which I thought a lovely touch. A self-service breakfast of juice, tea, coffee, cereals and toast is included in the very reasonable room rate (from as little as £26). The spacious hostel (I am not sure how many it sleeps, but it must be at least 100) has very generously sized public spaces and wears its primary colours (lots of Easyjet orange) well. Both the enormous reception area and sprawling breakfast room were full of residents - most of them young (unlike me) and delighted with their stay in the Clink (like me).

Letter from London

Hackney’s heart

In the wake of this summer’s riots, the centre of Hackney may not seem an obvious choice for a day trip; and if you read Wikitravel’s hackneyed entry on the borough you certainly wouldn’t go there after dark. Yet most locals are adamant they wouldn’t want to live anywhere else and Hackney is at the heart of the 2012 Olympics, when millions of visitors from around the world will pass through Hackney Central to get to the Olympic park.

The London Borough of Hackney has long been recognised as London’s creative quarter. Shoreditch, Hoxton and Dalston are home to all sorts of cutting-edge media types and a good proportion of the capital’s coolest nightlife venues. Even lowly Hackney Wick, once an industrial wasteland, is now home to more artists (one in seven people apparently) than anywhere else in the world. But poor old Hackney Central has been rather left off the tour guide’s map of London – until now, that is.

Travel writer Jane Egginton has long counted Hackney as her favourite place in the world. Jane’s tailor-made Saturday walking tour takes in green spaces, fine foods and centres of history right in the heart of Hackney, visiting ancient and modern markets, a brand new brewery and the oldest house in East London.

Begin your Saturday with a cappuccino at Broadway Market (www.broadwaymarket.co.uk), perhaps the most obvious example of the Hackney’s gentrification. One of London’s finest food markets, barrow boys have been trading here since the 1890s. This market gets really crowded around lunch-time, when the fashionistas rouse themselves from their Friday night excesses and parade along what is known as ‘the catwalk’. No-one really comes here for their weekly shop; meat, bread, fruit and vegetables are all overpriced. Instead people come to graze on street food, strut their stuff and sup a pint at the achingly cool Cat & Mutton pub.

Originally called The Cattle & Shoulder, across the road is a clue to the pub’s name; London Fields was used by drovers to pasture their livestock on the way to market. Today this hemmed-in triangle of grass is still well-used. On hot weekends, it fills up with groups of sun-seeking trendy young things and families with picnics. There are playgrounds, a cricket pitch, tennis courts, football games and even an outdoor ping pong table to amuse the crowds.

Skirt the western edge of London Fields, perhaps taking a dip in the lovely 1930s lido with its Olympic sized pool then cross to the eastern side. Tucked away beneath the railway arches is the newly-opened London Brewery at 374 Helmsley Place (www.londonfieldsbrewery.co.uk), open by appointment only for tastings and purchases of their tasty hand-crafted beers.

This exciting enterprise is the perfect example of new Hackney and part of an increasingly powerful movement of local producers. On offer from the first commercial brewery to open in central Hackney since the 19th century are five ales whose names ring out with love for the vicinity: Hackney Hopstar, London Fields Bitter, London Fields Session Ale, London Fields Gold and Love Not War (the last apparently named during the recent disturbances).

Continue your Hackney pilgrimage to another newbie on the scene. Walk north up Mare Street (the area’s main artery, known for its Vietnamese and Turkish restaurants) and you’ll soon reach the grand old Hackney Empire (www.hackneyempire.co.uk). This Georgian jewel opened in 1901 and was one of the world’s greatest music halls, playing host to the likes of Charlie Chaplin and WC Fields perform. Recently refurbished, the highlight of its calendar is without doubt the pantomime – generally agreed to be London’s best.

Continue north towards Hackney Overground station, where you’ll find the always-busy ‘narrow way’, the centre of Mare Street shopping. Turn right, passing the 13th-century St Augustine’s Tower (Hackney’s oldest building) and into the churchyard of St John at Hackney. Right in the heart of Hackney, these bucolic church gardens are visited by three quarters of a million people every year. In the north gardens of this impressive Grade II listed church, you’ll find the Hackney Homemade market (www.hackneyhomemade.com).

A newcomer on the market scene, this is a good example of Hackney’s gentrification sitting side by side with real community effort. Each week fledgling traders offering vintage clothes, bric-a-brac and world food, side by side with charity awareness stalls and the likes of shiatsu, aromatherapy and foot massage. Hackney Homemade hosts an exciting calendar of events, including a popular summer fete, a lively food festival and a spectacular Christmas market during the first three weekends in December, so look out for the latest information on the website.

Make Sutton House (2–4 Homerton High Street) your final stop. This splendid Tudor building, where merchants, silk weavers and squatters have all made their home, lays claim to being the oldest house in east London. It’s a National Trust property, a little gem that many locals miss. And its fully licensed tea room is a real bonus after all that walking.

This article appeared in CDTraveller for which I contribute a letter from London each month.

My Travel Cash

My father is an economist and while none of his mathematical genes rubbed off on me, I do like a bargain. And it really annoys me that I get charged by my bank each time I take money out when withdrawing cash from the ATM with my debit card when abroad – sometimes as much as four or five pounds.

I found myself withdrawing larger amounts of money as a way of avoiding lots of transactions and therefore more charges. This obviously doesn't make good financial sense. Apart from the temptation to spend more (research shows that half of travellers worry about overspending on holiday, with one in ten so concerned that it ruins their trip), there is also the chance that you could lose it or even have the cash stolen.

So when I found out about my Travel Cash – a card that not only doesn't charge any ATM withdrawal fees and no commission but also gives you 1% cashback on all purchases – I decided to give it a go. This card is not suitable for travel everywhere, but it offers currency in euros, US dollars and sterling. Just load the multi-currency card with sterling (£30 minimum) and you can use it to get multiple currencies when abroad. The same foreign currency charge as most debit and credit cards is applied – around 2.99% at the time of writing, but with my Travel Cash you get 1% cashback on all purchases and of course no charges.

Some people get worried that these pay-as-you-go currency cards require a credit check, but it is simply a case of completing a short online application to verify your identity. You do need to apply online and wait for approval. The application form is fairly straightforward and only took a few minutes. When approved (a refusal is very rare), you get a personalised card with your name, which looks and functions in the same way as a credit or debit card. My card arrived the next day and I am told all cards should arrive within just two days from receipt of application.

The first ATM I went to in Italy accepted my card (I am told they can be used at over 32 million outlets and at any of the 1.5 million ATMs worldwide displaying the MasterCard Acceptance Mark). When I had spent all my money (it didn't take long), I topped up my card online using www.myTravelCash.com. I am not known to track my spending carefully but it is easy to do this with online statements available on the site or by using SMS on my mobile. If you lose your card, there’s a Chip and PIN protection system in place and a 24-hour lost and stolen number you can call. But of course the big advantage with cash cards is that they are not linked to your bank account.

Cash cards look set to take over from debit cards in the same way as bank and credit cards took over from travellers cheques. And if you don’t know which one to choose, I suggest my Travel Cash, which is not only recommended by me but by independent consumer watchdog Which?

Four Wheels Good: Two Wheels Bad

There are a few non-negotiables for me when it comes to luggage. It has to have four wheels (for anyone who puts their laptop in their bag, four wheels are not really an optional extra as with only two wheels your luggage is prone to fall over), be cabin compliant and be very light. It’s also got to look good and it’s got to be expandable.

Samsonite are my favourite luggage manufacturer so I toyed with the idea of the Samsonite Cubelite case which rings in at £259. With four wheels, at 54cms and champagne coloured, it ticks three of my boxes. It is also, it seems, made of a revolutionary ultra tough, ultra light polypropylene material known as Curv. Samonsite proudly tell me they have the patent for this unique material usually reserved for anti-ballistic body armour. Oh and its ‘silent wheels’ are supposedly inspired by airplane propellers. Really. In the end though I was so pleased I plumped for the X’Pression 55cm Expandable Upright Cabin Case, also in a stylish champagne colour and two thirds of the price. I tested the X’Pression to the limits at the airport when I had to squeeze my handbag tightly into my one allowed piece of hand luggage on my budget flight. Grrr. The zip didn’t break though, and the multidirectional wheels were successfully put to the test on a sheer rocky mountainside in Lake Garda. The lockable and removable garment bag is an agreeable added extra, as is the three height push-button locking handle which can be adjusted to any size of traveller. And I loved the outside pocket to stash my water bottle.

Satsuma

This little gem of a restaurant slap bang in the middle of Soho is the only Japanese restaurant from the highly thought of Royal China stable of restaurants. It has been a favourite with media types, locals and tourists for the 12 years since it opened, but thanks to a recent, splendid refurb it is more appealing than ever. We came in for 'lunch' but the eclectic menu and relaxed staff means you can come in for something to eat at just about any time of day.

I loved the spacious interior and we were lucky enough to get a booth. I was meeting a fellow travel writer for lunch. We had both just returned from sunnier climes (she: Caribbean, me: The Algarve) but as we looked out at people huddled in the rain on Wardour Street, it felt as if we were sitting under a little ray of orange sunshine and I was charmed when the young smiley waiter happily plugged in my phone for me using his charger.

I ordered a hot saké and began leafing through the wonderfully concise picture menu. We went for a starter of silky aubergine and an exquisitely presented crab maki roll (pictured) followed by Katsu chicken (also pictured), spicy beef udon and a seaweed salad beautifully and imaginatively served on ice in a cocktail glass. Katsu is the restaurant's signature dish – the chicken was lightly breaded with a deliciously rich curry sauce. All dishes were very reasonably priced with most mains between £5 and £10.

This intimate restaurant – as sweetly satisfying and visually appealing as the little fruit from which it takes its name – attracts a mix of people, all of whom appeared very relaxed in this soothing environment. Behind us a man played drums with his chopsticks to entertain his six-year-old son who announced 'I like it here, it's my second time', opposite a Chinese couple stood their pretty doll-like baby on their table while two American girls gossiped in the corner.

The only problem? We didn't want to leave and we only managed to prise ourselves away a full four hours later; the discreet waiting staff not batting an eyelid at our extended 'lunch'.

54 Wardour Street Tel 0207 437 8338

www.osatsuma.com

A Soothing Spa in Central Kings Cross

I felt like an excited and slightly nervous school girl arriving at the Hogwartian St Pancras Renaissance Hotel for the first time. Scenes from Harry Potter were filmed here and the location certainly worked some kind of magic on me. The hotel, which originally threw open its doors in 1873, reopened this year to the tune of a cool 150 million pounds. It was a surprise to me that this oh so British heritage hotel is actually a Marriott, which offers a range of holiday deals, but it shows no hint of a chain mentality.

I enjoyed a skilfully executed cleansing and soothing express facial with Cinq Mondes products in the subterranean spa, housed in the old kitchen. The spa manager explained that the range – which means ‘Five Worlds’ – was deemed highly appropriate given the amount of travellers that pass through the hotel building and the bustling train station. But that was not the only reason. All the products from this highly thought of French stable, which are used in 200 spas in 20 countries around the world, are organic and natural and of extraordinary quality.

Cinq Mondes, which is very much a dedicated spa brand, inspired a complete set of ‘spa journeys’ to transport visitors to the Renaissance spa to Europe, India, Indonesia, and beyond. After their treatment drawing on beauty and relaxation rituals from around the world, guests are treated to a special snack, with music and smells appropriate to their treatment ‘destination’ – a wonderfully imaginative touch.

Throughout the exquisitely decorated spa, presided over by a dedicated spa butler, the symbol of a peacock is a reappearing icon. During painstaking renovations (which took nearly a decade) of this historic building, the symbol of a peacock was found in the plasterwork. It seemed an ideal image for the spa which has rejuvenation as its central ethos as the peacock is able to grow a completely set of new feathers when it sheds its old ones.

The Victorian tiled relaxation pool is a serene space that is a world away from the busy international station above. I was told that the interior designers were allowed to use a palette of just 20 colours in this heritage hotel. This obviously presented a real challenge, but there is no hint of the restrictions in place, with the décor singing real classic style.

Upstairs, the Booking Office bar and restaurant is housed in the original ticket office. I have been told not to miss a Gin Fizz with truffle and chips at the charming old school bar and a night in the hotel itself ­ – but that’s another journey.

www.stpancrasspa.co.uk

Rio on a Roll

Rio de Janeiro is on a roll. Like a beautiful woman who has long been dismissed as frivolous, the city is finally being taken seriously. Booking my flights to Ibiza got me thinking about hedonistic destinations. Rio de Janeiro has always been Brazil’s most desirable tourist destination, but, thanks to some spectacular successes, the world is now realising that Rio is not just a pretty face.

No one can fail to be seduced by Rio de Janeiro’s striking physical features. The outstretched arms of the Christ the Redeemer statue in the curvaceous green hills of the largest urban forest on the planet offer a continuous welcoming embrace. And Rio’s crescents of golden sands are some of the finest city beaches in the world. Copacabana in the city’s ‘South Zone’ is rather past its sell by date though; much more appealing is neighbouring Ipanema, where the beautiful people in their world-famous beachwear hang out.

On a rainy day in Rio – this hot, exotic city has more than you might think – visitors should cut their losses and head to the rainforest enclaves of the impressive Botanical Gardens or Tijuca National Park – the city’s spectacular green lung. Rio de Janeiro forms Brazil’s cultural corridor and its large number of museums, churches and cultural centres in the historical heart known as Centro not only offer shelter from the elements but are of real appeal.

Rio de Janeiro comes with an unforgettable soundtrack. Samba, the lifeblood of Carnival, can be heard year round in samba schools and in traditional dance halls known as gafierias. The city has undeniable social problems but there are plenty of good news stories, with the artists’ quarter of Santa Teresa – once a no go area – becoming Rio’s very own Montmartre. This is a city at ease with itself, and rich in musical traditions. And it is essentially a democratic place where everyone –on the beach and in the much-loved botequims (traditional local bars) at least – is equal.

The country’s meteoric rise as an economic power – now the fifth biggest in the world – and its role as host of the World Cup (2014) and the Olympics (2016) mean that the beautiful city of Rio is taking centre stage as a global player. Rio – now more than ever – is a city to watch.

This article is to appear in ABTA magazine.

Jamaican Twist at Notting Hill Carnival

London’s Notting Hill Carnival has its roots firmly in the culture of the West Indian island of Trinidad, but since 2003, Jamaican Twist – the only Jamaican float to take part – has been an integral part, winning no less than six awards in the last three years.

There was some talk this year that the carnival would not go ahead in the light of the recent London riots. Boris Johnston said to cancel would have been to admit defeat, but the result would have been a lot worse than that. For many of the young, black and mixed race participants, it is a unique chance for them to express themselves and their culture.

Feisty, busty, tattooed Natalie (21 years) has been many times carnival queen for Jamaica Twist which she has been part of since she was just 13. I ask her if it just Jamaicans who can join the float. ‘Nah, nah, we are Brazilian, Jamaican, Scottish… we come from all over. And Jamaicans come from all over. It is like we say, ‘‘Out of many, one people’.

This is the fitting national motto and one taken up by the Jamaican Tourist Board, who sponsor the float each year. In true carnival spirit, Jamaican Twist collaborates with other musicians representing other islands and countries, including Trinidad and Tobago, Brazil and the South Pacific islands. Each year is a new theme representing a key part of Jamaican culture. This year it was it Bob Marley to mark the 30^th anniversary of his death.

I couldn't imagine a better and stronger expression of community. And it is a particularly powerful statement when you remember that the first Notting Hill carnival was born out of a deeply racist and divided neighbourhood where signs saying: ‘No Blacks, No Irish, No dogs’ were commonplace.

Veronica, a charity worker, who volunteers with Jamaican Twist, explains that there are a lot of second and third generation Jamaicans who have never even been to Jamaica. The organisation, which also puts on events throughout the year, works very hard at engaging youngsters with a sense of pride of their community and of where they come from. ‘We have a very good Facebook page and we try to keep them interested in their culture, their music, dance and give them a bit of history. I do hope they dance decently today’, she says nervously.

They don’t. For a white middle class English girl like me, the grinding is shockingly sexual and I was surprised to see youngsters drinking brandy neat from the bottle at 11am. One young woman who had been to Jamaica on holiday skilfully grinded with the security guards, but at the same time three youths danced sweetly to a highly choreographed routine.

Carnival, despite what you might think, is not actually a spectator sport so I did my lame best to join in. Participants were not only of a mix of cultural heritage, but of all ages, backgrounds and dancing ability. We were issued with t-shirts (which most of the girls customised to make more revealing) and much needed ear plugs. The sounds from the three metre high walls of speakers that lined the Jamaican Twist truck were deafening. A tiny space in the middle was given over to a fridge, microwave and DJ. After a truly Jamaican start, we set off two and a half hours late, fortified with the best jerk chicken with rice and peas I have ever tasted and the strongest rum and coke.

Notting Hill may now be one of London’s most desirable areas, but as recently as the 1970s it was described as ‘a massive slum, full of multi-occupied houses, crawling with rats and rubbish’. Home to large communities of Afro-Caribbean immigrants, and racial tension inevitably reared its head. It was in this part of West London that the first race riots occurred in 1958. The Carnival was the joyous and peaceful response, which first took place indoors, but by 1965 had taken to the streets. The multi cultural celebration has grown each year and now sees around two million visitors over the two-day event.

Alexander D Great, the UK Calypso Monarch explained: ‘That procession declared to the British public how Caribbeans celebrated - with joy and with laughter and with jumping and dancing - an event like this, and the carnival is also representative of the same thing. And maybe this was the first time that the British public saw the Caribbean spirit in Britain in the open air.’

For just |15 pounds (for a t-shirt and to follow the float) anyone can join the carnival. If you want to wear a costume, it is 85 pounds, which also includes a meal, drinks and patties.

www.jamaicantwist.com/membership.

Notting Hill Carnival in London is second only to Rio’s in Brazil. And my advice to enjoy both is the same: join in.

California's Road Less Travelled

When I said I was going to San Francisco, many friends queued to tell me it was their favourite city in the world. I too am a big fan of San Fran’s laid back charms – but beyond the Golden Gate Bridge are less peopled parts of Southern California, with a bounty of natural treasure that many visitors miss completely.

Of course, nearby Yosemite, Sequoia and Kings Canyon are California’s big three when it comes to national parks. Popular fly-drive breaks see a healthy flood of international tourists land at San Fran, stay for a few days to sample city life and then head out to one or more of these natural wonders. But I sought the road less travelled.

I decided to venture across the Golden Gate Bridge to visit charming Sausalito, traditional seaside Santa Cruz, awash with nostalgia, and some of southern California that many visitors miss. An unforgettable hike in the little known but spectacular Pinnacles National Monument, ocean kayaking in sleepy Monterey Bay and a visit to the largest marine sanctuary in the US left me with some real gilt-edged memories of the Golden State of California.

I began my trip, and thoroughly recommend, staying at Cavallo Point, a luxury lodge with extraordinary bay views, and rooms that start at a good-value $280. It began life as Fort Baker in 1905, but has been lovingly converted into an eco resort over the last ten years. The Point is in the pretty waterfront community of Sausalito, within the Golden Gate National Park and standing practically at the foot of the famous bridge. It’s just a 30-minute taxi ride to the heart of San Francisco, but who needs a cab to some fancy downtown eatery when the Point has Murray Circle – its own Michelin-starred restaurant. You can reach the city by ferry too, but I chose a breathtaking 90-minute pedal-powered ride over the bridge, one of the highlights of my trip.

From Sausalito, I headed 75 miles south through the state. The thrills of Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk with its classic Americana and obligatory Big Dipper passed me by. But for those who love all the fun of the fair, an all-day wristband is a steal at less than US$30.

My next stop was Monterey Bay, around 120 miles south of San Fran. The bay is just the beginning of a ruggedly scenic coastline that zigzags for 300 miles as far down as Ventura. You may not have heard of the laid back coastal town of Monterey Bay, but Steinbeck immortalised the area’s long-gone sardine fisheries in Cannery Row, and the town’s non‑profit aquarium is widely agreed to be one of the best in the world. The undeniably impressive Open Sea gallery – a million-gallon exhibit populated with sea turtles, sharks and puffins – opened in July 2011 to much acclaim.

New breed of Bangkok Hotel

The Bangkok Loft Inn is an exciting addition to the traditional Bangkok accommodation scene. This ‘inn’ is an example of a new breed of modern, simple boutique hotels that are springing up not just in Thailand, but in big cities worldwide. Although not in the heart of the traditional tourist area, this excellent value option is conveniently close to the futuristic Skytrain station that can whisk you around town. Expect real wood floors, sleek modern furnishings, free Wi Fi, spotless rooms and a welcome free pick up from the airport (you may have to wait though).

Sailing on America's Cup Yacht, San Francisco Bay

I got a sneak preview of the 34th America's Cup which is taking place in San Francisco in 2013, a 90-day event that will see around 40 of the fastest sail boats in the world compete. On a glorious, if windswept, day we set sail on America in San Francisco Bay, a local journalist telling me: ‘They say if you can sail in San Francisco you can sail anywhere in the world.'

This beauty is the $6 million replica of the schooner after which the race is named, although I had always assumed that it took its name from the country. The original yacht won Queen Victoria's 100 Guinea Cup in England way back in 1851 and finally 'perished' in 1945 – well, it was actually left to rot.

‘We have a head on board’ the captain and co-owner announces. My husband translates, whispering that a head is a toilet. It is probably the only bit of the yacht's equipment that I really need to know about. Some of the passengers have eagerly offered their services as deck hands, but I am here to admire the view as we sail under the Golden Gate Bridge.

This is a racing craft, after all, not a pleasure cruiser, although the owner tells me he and family often have Thanksgiving dinner round the table on deck. He goes on to say: ‘I love to sail. I just came back from a trip where I saw 40 humpback whales playing with me in the bay. If people could see what I saw, they would all want to sail.’

Weekly sailings on the America take place throughout July from Golden Gate Yacht Club. The USA 76 is permanently available on the bay for sailings. I am told it is 'the most modern America’s Cup yacht available anywhere in the world for public sailing experiences.' Reservations www.acsailingsf.com

Lifesaver near London

Stressed out Londoners can jump on a train at Liverpool Street and be in Lifehouse in just over an hour. Who needs glamorous overseas villa holidays when we have this on our doorstep? In Thorpe-le-Soken, Essex, a ten-minute drive from the pretty beach town of Frinton-on-sea, the Lifehouse opened in December 2010 to the tune of £30 million. The modern, simple buildings and 130 acres of grounds, including 12 acres of magnificent listed gardens, form an extensive holistic retreat.

I was greeted by an effervescent young trainer, Shelley who enthusiastically reeled off a list of activities from acupuncture and boot camp to Zumba. I did a very enjoyable Vinyasa session in the dedicated yoga and pilates room, with the radiant Jocelyn, who also advises guests about raw foods.

Lifehouse’s signature treatment, the Oriental Bathing Experience, is inspired by traditional bathhouses in the east. During a sensory two-hour session I was taken on a journey through Asian cultures. My therapist began by gently pouring milk bath laced with ginseng, green tea and gingko from a ladle made with coconut over my feet, explaining that this is both grounding and a sign of respect. After tapping my feet with a wooden stick as part of a traditional Thai ritual, she swaddled them in white nappy-like towels.

I walked on a stone circle breathing in Moroccan rose oil, which was wonderfully meditative, and was scrubbed down in a Japanese bathhouse. The experience ended with a Japanese tea ceremony and a blissful hot stone massage. After just two days I tripped back to Liverpool Street Station feeling as if I had been away for a week.

The full article appears in Yoga Magazine in July.

Travel Diaries

Holly Jones is an enthusiastic would-be travel writer who writes a travel blog (http://hjtraveldiaries.blogspot.com). Holly is about to travel the world on her gap year and got in touch with me to ask my advice about Thailand. My AA Spiral guide to Thailand is available on Amazon.

Travel writing as a career would be a dream for me. Getting to travel, write about about the travels and then paid for it - yes please! Although I'm sure there's a tad more hard work involved! Jane Egginton has had 20 years worth of experience writing and editing in the travelling field. Some of the travel guides she has edited and written in include Dorling Kindersley, Thomas Cook and Michelin. She also spent four years in house at Readers Digest. Suffice to say she has had a lot of travelling experience and knows her stuff! I was lucky enough to get an opportunity to ask her some questions, so here they are. Also check out her travel blog here (I love it!) - http://www.travelwriteruk.blogspot.com/ and follow her on twitter here - http://twitter.com/#!/janeegginton. Thank you Jane!

Holly - I've just arrived in Thailand what's the first thing I should do?

Jane Egginton - I would jump in a tuk tuk, whizzing round the traffic clogged streets, this always gives me a real buzz. Then, pull up at a street stall and tuck into some freshly cooked, delicious local food.

H - Thailand is known for it's food, what's good to eat there and any favourite meal you've had there?

JE - I love it all. The fresh fish, cooked in delicate spices, the chilli infused noodle soups, crunchy pad thai...

H - For you does Thailand mean party party or rest and relaxation (or both?!)?

JE - I was never one for those full moon parties, but I love to languish on the white sand beaches and usually find myself having a massage every night - they are a steal and some of the best in the world

H - How would you sum up Thailand in three words?

JE - Smiling, spicy, beautiful

H - What attracted you to South America?

JE - The language (I wanted to improve my Spanish, but couldn't communicate in Spain - Latin Americans are so much more patient), the landscapes - the variety - from beaches and desert to rainforest and mountains is astounding.

H - What are some of your favourite places, things to do or experiences in South America?

JE - I love the desert in Bolivia, which also has a fascinating indigenous population. Colombia is extraordinary and I got married on the beach on its Caribbean coast. My favourite is Brazil. The people are so open (they call us 'fechado' - closed).

H - What's unique about Brazil?

JE - Well, they speak Portuguese, unlike the rest of South America, but what really hits you is the personality of its population. Just go - you will understand what I mean.

H - What are your essentials when setting out on a new trip?

JE - I am not a great planner, but I always carry my iphone with me to be connected to the world.

H - Finally for you, what's the best thing about travelling?

JE - Meeting other people and learning about the world.

A Taste of Spain

As the Taste of Spain (www.atasteofspain.co.uk) kicks off in London on Sunday, consider the little island of Lanzarote, one of the smallest of the Canary Islands, which has a reputation of being brash and, well, not very nice. Monty Python man Michael Palin with his ‘Lanzagrotty’ tag is to blame, but many locals are actually grateful that his description has kept so many potential holidaymakers away, claiming it has helped to preserve the local traditions.

There is an authenticity about life in Lanzarote, more than in many places in Spain. Although undeniably popular as a tourist destination, the island remains essentially rural and was declared a biosphere reserve by UNESCO in 1993. With less rainfall than the scorching Sahara desert and year-round sun, the lovely island of Lanzarote is often mistaken for a barren landscape sprouting nothing but volcanoes. Yet, a huge variety of food is grown here, in the same way as it has been for hundreds of years, using simple and largely organic farming methods. Vines for the surprisingly good Malvasia wine, corn and sweet potatoes are amongst the bumper crops.

Read the full article at http://www.cd-traveller.com/2011/06/03/a-taste-of-lanzarote/

London's Vertical Gateway

Hotel Verta on the Thames waterfront in Battersea was built in 2010 as part of the regeneration of a rather forgotten corner of London. The hotel, which unashamedly declares it is for the elite, is bang next door to London's only heliport and part of what has been dubbed 'London's Vertical Gateway'.

I had some difficulty finding the hotel (few cab drivers seem to know where it is yet), but was immediately soothed by the restful interior that is decidedly modern but featuring rich pickings related to the area’s heritage. I loved the decidedly decadent suite but I have to say I didn't spend too much time in my room – I was just too busy eating.

Although I did begin my visit to the spa where I was looked after by the lovely Leila and sipped ginseng flower tea complete with petals. I normally resist a facial, but I went for the 'signature sweet option' which was superb and as relaxing as a massage. Unusually, I was given lots of tips to take home, with foundation and toner recommendations and a bagful of goodies for me and my husband.

I would go as far as to say the eating experience here is outstanding. I say eating experience, because it is not just the food that is enjoyable, but the atmosphere of the restaurant, the service (which is charming yet relaxed) and very importantly – the choice of food.

My husband and I began at the cocktail bar which is just as a cocktail bar should be – restful, civilised but with a lovely buzz and of course serving perfect cocktails – which they were. I went for an 'Aviation' cocktail – Aviation gin, maraschino and lemon juice, although I was tempted by a 'Bramble' and tucked into wasabi nuts and olives. My husband went for a daiquiri – the classic, not the 'lady's version' he pointed out. He then went on to declare the dry martini – the cocktail by which all cocktail bars are judged – as 'faultless'.

The service was absolutely charming and very on the ball – a surprisingly rare combination, particularly in London hotels. I liked the 'lounge dining' - an all day menu and a really good one: concise, with just ten options, and all perfectly chosen. It was just the right mix of rustic and sophisticated, with dishes such as cep risotto and oak smoked salmon and soda bread. Then I saw the Jet Fuel menu (named after the heliport, my husband informed me) which is also all day (11.30am–11pm), offering mouthwatering oysters with tabasco and shallots, spiced jhinga prawns and chorizo hot dog. Oh, and they also offer afternoon tea from a very civilised 2.30pm to 6pm.

The restaurant is big but not too big and the menu very assured, with something for everyone whilst having a real focus. I like a menu that doesn't try too hard, as if the chef has something to prove. The mains are relatively pricey - around £20, although the starters averaged only around £8, including for six oysters, which is very good value. Around half the items on the menu were fishy, which suited me fine. I liked the local touches with desserts (all £7.50) featuring Battersea honey.

The breakfast menu, which was a lovely mix of traditional English and some more contemporary options, didn't disappoint. I went for the 'brain food breakfast' of smoked mackerel on wholemeal toast with poached eggs and a berry smoothie. My husband went old school with boiled eggs and soldiers. No, we didn't leave by helicopter in case you are wondering. But the chopper brought in a few lucky guests as we were having breakfast, which made an unusual and entertaining vista.

London's Vertical Gateway
Bridges Wharf, Battersea
London, SW11 3BE
Sat Nav Ref: SW11 3RP
Tel: 020 7801 3500
www.hotelverta.com