This little gem of a restaurant slap bang in the middle of Soho is the only Japanese restaurant from the highly thought of Royal China stable of restaurants. It has been a favourite with media types, locals and tourists for the 12 years since it opened, but thanks to a recent, splendid refurb it is more appealing than ever. We came in for 'lunch' but the eclectic menu and relaxed staff means you can come in for something to eat at just about any time of day.
I loved the spacious interior and we were lucky enough to get a booth. I was meeting a fellow travel writer for lunch. We had both just returned from sunnier climes (she: Caribbean, me: The Algarve) but as we looked out at people huddled in the rain on Wardour Street, it felt as if we were sitting under a little ray of orange sunshine and I was charmed when the young smiley waiter happily plugged in my phone for me using his charger.
I ordered a hot saké and began leafing through the wonderfully concise picture menu. We went for a starter of silky aubergine and an exquisitely presented crab maki roll (pictured) followed by Katsu chicken (also pictured), spicy beef udon and a seaweed salad beautifully and imaginatively served on ice in a cocktail glass. Katsu is the restaurant's signature dish – the chicken was lightly breaded with a deliciously rich curry sauce. All dishes were very reasonably priced with most mains between £5 and £10.
This intimate restaurant – as sweetly satisfying and visually appealing as the little fruit from which it takes its name – attracts a mix of people, all of whom appeared very relaxed in this soothing environment. Behind us a man played drums with his chopsticks to entertain his six-year-old son who announced 'I like it here, it's my second time', opposite a Chinese couple stood their pretty doll-like baby on their table while two American girls gossiped in the corner.
The only problem? We didn't want to leave and we only managed to prise ourselves away a full four hours later; the discreet waiting staff not batting an eyelid at our extended 'lunch'.
54 Wardour Street Tel 0207 437 8338
www.osatsuma.com
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