Rio on a Roll

Rio de Janeiro is on a roll. Like a beautiful woman who has long been dismissed as frivolous, the city is finally being taken seriously. Booking my flights to Ibiza got me thinking about hedonistic destinations. Rio de Janeiro has always been Brazil’s most desirable tourist destination, but, thanks to some spectacular successes, the world is now realising that Rio is not just a pretty face.

No one can fail to be seduced by Rio de Janeiro’s striking physical features. The outstretched arms of the Christ the Redeemer statue in the curvaceous green hills of the largest urban forest on the planet offer a continuous welcoming embrace. And Rio’s crescents of golden sands are some of the finest city beaches in the world. Copacabana in the city’s ‘South Zone’ is rather past its sell by date though; much more appealing is neighbouring Ipanema, where the beautiful people in their world-famous beachwear hang out.

On a rainy day in Rio – this hot, exotic city has more than you might think – visitors should cut their losses and head to the rainforest enclaves of the impressive Botanical Gardens or Tijuca National Park – the city’s spectacular green lung. Rio de Janeiro forms Brazil’s cultural corridor and its large number of museums, churches and cultural centres in the historical heart known as Centro not only offer shelter from the elements but are of real appeal.

Rio de Janeiro comes with an unforgettable soundtrack. Samba, the lifeblood of Carnival, can be heard year round in samba schools and in traditional dance halls known as gafierias. The city has undeniable social problems but there are plenty of good news stories, with the artists’ quarter of Santa Teresa – once a no go area – becoming Rio’s very own Montmartre. This is a city at ease with itself, and rich in musical traditions. And it is essentially a democratic place where everyone –on the beach and in the much-loved botequims (traditional local bars) at least – is equal.

The country’s meteoric rise as an economic power – now the fifth biggest in the world – and its role as host of the World Cup (2014) and the Olympics (2016) mean that the beautiful city of Rio is taking centre stage as a global player. Rio – now more than ever – is a city to watch.

This article is to appear in ABTA magazine.

Jamaican Twist at Notting Hill Carnival

London’s Notting Hill Carnival has its roots firmly in the culture of the West Indian island of Trinidad, but since 2003, Jamaican Twist – the only Jamaican float to take part – has been an integral part, winning no less than six awards in the last three years.

There was some talk this year that the carnival would not go ahead in the light of the recent London riots. Boris Johnston said to cancel would have been to admit defeat, but the result would have been a lot worse than that. For many of the young, black and mixed race participants, it is a unique chance for them to express themselves and their culture.

Feisty, busty, tattooed Natalie (21 years) has been many times carnival queen for Jamaica Twist which she has been part of since she was just 13. I ask her if it just Jamaicans who can join the float. ‘Nah, nah, we are Brazilian, Jamaican, Scottish… we come from all over. And Jamaicans come from all over. It is like we say, ‘‘Out of many, one people’.

This is the fitting national motto and one taken up by the Jamaican Tourist Board, who sponsor the float each year. In true carnival spirit, Jamaican Twist collaborates with other musicians representing other islands and countries, including Trinidad and Tobago, Brazil and the South Pacific islands. Each year is a new theme representing a key part of Jamaican culture. This year it was it Bob Marley to mark the 30^th anniversary of his death.

I couldn't imagine a better and stronger expression of community. And it is a particularly powerful statement when you remember that the first Notting Hill carnival was born out of a deeply racist and divided neighbourhood where signs saying: ‘No Blacks, No Irish, No dogs’ were commonplace.

Veronica, a charity worker, who volunteers with Jamaican Twist, explains that there are a lot of second and third generation Jamaicans who have never even been to Jamaica. The organisation, which also puts on events throughout the year, works very hard at engaging youngsters with a sense of pride of their community and of where they come from. ‘We have a very good Facebook page and we try to keep them interested in their culture, their music, dance and give them a bit of history. I do hope they dance decently today’, she says nervously.

They don’t. For a white middle class English girl like me, the grinding is shockingly sexual and I was surprised to see youngsters drinking brandy neat from the bottle at 11am. One young woman who had been to Jamaica on holiday skilfully grinded with the security guards, but at the same time three youths danced sweetly to a highly choreographed routine.

Carnival, despite what you might think, is not actually a spectator sport so I did my lame best to join in. Participants were not only of a mix of cultural heritage, but of all ages, backgrounds and dancing ability. We were issued with t-shirts (which most of the girls customised to make more revealing) and much needed ear plugs. The sounds from the three metre high walls of speakers that lined the Jamaican Twist truck were deafening. A tiny space in the middle was given over to a fridge, microwave and DJ. After a truly Jamaican start, we set off two and a half hours late, fortified with the best jerk chicken with rice and peas I have ever tasted and the strongest rum and coke.

Notting Hill may now be one of London’s most desirable areas, but as recently as the 1970s it was described as ‘a massive slum, full of multi-occupied houses, crawling with rats and rubbish’. Home to large communities of Afro-Caribbean immigrants, and racial tension inevitably reared its head. It was in this part of West London that the first race riots occurred in 1958. The Carnival was the joyous and peaceful response, which first took place indoors, but by 1965 had taken to the streets. The multi cultural celebration has grown each year and now sees around two million visitors over the two-day event.

Alexander D Great, the UK Calypso Monarch explained: ‘That procession declared to the British public how Caribbeans celebrated - with joy and with laughter and with jumping and dancing - an event like this, and the carnival is also representative of the same thing. And maybe this was the first time that the British public saw the Caribbean spirit in Britain in the open air.’

For just |15 pounds (for a t-shirt and to follow the float) anyone can join the carnival. If you want to wear a costume, it is 85 pounds, which also includes a meal, drinks and patties.

www.jamaicantwist.com/membership.

Notting Hill Carnival in London is second only to Rio’s in Brazil. And my advice to enjoy both is the same: join in.